In México, I’ve marveled at the works of famous artists like Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. I’ve even seen a pre-Hispanic jaguar painting at Teotihuacán, and tried my hand at making black pottery.

Pantaleon Ruiz. Today, I continued my art education by visiting the studio of Oaxacan artist and weaver, Pantaleon Ruiz. Pantaleon was born into a family of Zapotec weavers who passed down the traditional techniques of hand-weaving wool rugs from generation to generation. One of the most important factors in maintaining the family tradition is using only natural pigments and dyes for the wool. Using a stone mortar, he grinds cochineal (dried parasite), nut shells, moss, and marigolds to produce hues of red, brown, green, and yellow. The result: vibrant and lasting colors.

The weaving process is done completely by hand. This is a very time consuming process, but the end product is a more natural, weighty feel than mass produced carpets. Once the wool is dyed and dried it is ready for the large loom. Pantaleon’s mom demonstrated how the loom is used to create complex patterns. Sometimes, the designs are so complicated that it can take up to six months to complete a single rug.

A true renaissance man, Pantaleon is not only known for his traditional rugs, he also paints. He uses unique elements including ashes, wax, sand, and seeds to create depth and texture. In addition to his hands, he uses natural yarn and paint brushes to apply color to canvas. Much to my surprise, he invited me to roll up my sleeves paint alongside him. Encouraging me to paint with my emotions, allowing me to create freely. To me, it seemed like the secret to Pantaleon’s process was simply enjoying the journey art takes. He could not tell me how he knew when a painting was finished, it is just something he feels.

Paper Factory at San Agustin Etla. After visiting the studio of a working artist, I went to learn how an artist’s basic material is made. There is no assembly line at the paper making factory in San Agustin Etla. Like Pantaleon’s woven rugs, the entire process is done by hand. The artisans use only natural ingredients and dyes.

One of the most fascinating parts of the papermaking process was observing the pulp being made. Cotton, limestone, and water are mixed in a huge blender until an oatmeal-like slurry is created, called pulpa. After processing for 15 minutes, the pulpa splatters into a large vat. After the slurry rests, more water is added to the mixture. It is a messy process; I ended up wearing a lot of this squishy, smelly substance.

Then, a screen strainer filters the water, leaving the fibers to form the shape of a single sheet of paper. Once pressed and dried, the handcrafted paper is used to make kites, stationery, and even jewelry.

Head to Xochimilco, the final stop.

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